Skip to main content
Black Overlay

Service FAQs

If you live in Canada or the US, return the product to where you purchased it from originally. The dealer will then contact Race Face and will discuss your warranty case with us and things will proceed from there. For International customers, return the product back to the place of original purchase and they will work with the Race Face Distributor in your area to sort out a solution for you.

DO NOT send product directly back to Race Face without having contacted your original dealer. Warranty returns need to be issued an RA# by Race Face. Any product shipment arriving at Race Face without a proper RA# will be returned to sender. 

Yes you will need to produce a proof of purchase for the Race Face product you want to have considered for warranty coverage (either for the product directly or for the complete bike). Race Face warranty coverage is extended to the original owner of the RF product, so the proof of purchase helps to prove your original ownership of a genuine Race Face product. 

The short answer is no. The Race Face warranty protects you from manufacturing defects and other related issues. It does not cover damage from normal use or crash situations. You can have the dealer that you bought the RF product from contact Race Face or the RF Distributor to explore crash replacement options.

As with all new bikes and bike parts, a “bolt check” is always recommended after your first ride and Cinch cranks are no different. We strongly advise checking all fasteners before AND after your first ride, including the 16mm non-drive side crank bolt. Please refer to your installation manual for specific torque settings.

For the large majority of Race Face cranks a special puller tool is not required. The mid-high end spectrum of Race Face cranks (Cinch, EXI, and older X-Type interfaces) use a self-extracting puller cap system that allows for the removal of the drive side crank with only an 8mm Hex key wrench. For some of the mid to lower end EXI cranks (Evolve, Aeffect, Chester, Ride, and Respond) a standard crank puller tool for Spindled cranks like the Park CCP-44 is required for crank removal.

Race Face makes bottom brackets and adapters that will allow you to set-up your Race Face cranks to most current frame standards. For cranks with 24mm diameter we have BB solutions for BSA, BB92, BB30, and PF30; in various length options as well. For the 30mm diameter spindles as found on most Cinch interface cranks; we have BB options for BSA30, PF30, and BB92. For further details on bottom bracket compatibility check the second page of this document. 

Please check the installation instructions for your model of Race Face cranks here, for the proper torque specs for crank bolts and other install instruction. You can also look at the puller crank on the crankarm for torque specs as in some cases that info is printed there. 

It is a fairly easy process - You simply swap the crank bolt and puller cap from the drive side and install in on the non-drive side and extract the cranks as you would from the drive side. You can check this video for the full rundown of the process: 

In some cases yes! For cranks that use a 24mm diameter spindle (like Shimano) you can use Race Face X-Type bottom brackets. For cranks with 30mm diameter spindle there is some possibility that you could use a RF 30mm bottom bracket – but it would need to be for a crankset that would be set-up on a frame that is BB92, BB89.5, or BSA30. If in doubt you can check with the crankset’s manufacturer on BB compatibility. 

In some cases yes! A Race Face crankset with a 24mm diameter spindle can work with a competitors BB that is designed for 24mm spindles. For our 30m spindled cranksets there are some cases that other brands 30mm BB’s would be compatible – although sometimes an additional spacer kit would need to be used. For full details you can check this 30mm compatibility chart.

For our threaded X-Type BB’s (for 24mm spindle cranks) you use the standard BB cup tool like the BBT-29 from Park. The Race Face threaded BSA30 cups do need a different cup tool like the one we have available or there are alternate tools available like the BBT-79 from Park . For the 24mm or 30mm Race Face bottom brackets for press fit style frames (BB92/PF30/BB30) you can use a tool like the BBP-1 from Park. 

YES! Any Race Face crank can be set up as a 1x crank. If you have a crank with a 104 BCD spider then you can go with this RF ring, if you have a Race Face crank with the Cinch interface then you go with the direct mount single ring

You use a standard 20t internal bottom bracket cup tool – like this BBT-22 from Park

Yes and No – All Cinch Direct mount rings and bottom brackets are compatible with Race Face cranks using the Cinch system. There are some Cinch System crank bolts, spiders and puller caps that are specific to certain Cinch crank models. You can check for the specific Cinch part you are in search of in our Cinch Small Parts area or by calling us on 604-415-2350

You will need to refer to the manufactures install instructions for your handlebar controls – they should list torque values for the control levers. 

Race Face does not recommend running bar ends on its carbon bars. Bar ends can cause unpredictable loads to be applied to the bar that can cause issues and maybe even bar failure. Running bar ends on your Race Face carbon bar will void any warranty coverage on the bar. 

Race Face parts and gear can be purchased through your local bike shop, major online dealers and from!

The Turbine / Haven Dropper posts are designed to automatically self-adjust to account for changes in air temperature. However, when riding in extreme hot or cold temperatures relative to where the bike is stored, the post may not always function optimally. In these cases you will need to do a quick manual equalize (or reset) of the post’s brake at riding temperature. To do this, first ensure your cable tension is set so there is a slight amount of free play at the lever (1-2mm). Next, push the lever all the way until you feel the cable stop and hold it there for a few seconds. If the cable does not bottom out before reaching the end of lever travel, you may need to increase cable tension with the barrel adjuster, or rotate the lever to clear other controls and try again. Finally, after equalizing the brake you may need to re-adjust cable tension to achieve 1-2mm of free play at the lever again.